Valdemar Amaro Espresso

Rustic sweetness and a creamy body underpin notes of milk chocolate, toasted coconut and hazelnuts.

During our seven years of roasting coffee we have continually adapted and changed our style and approach, trying to better hone in on what is important to us as quality coffee roasters. All our practices in the roastery are dictated by the green coffee we buy, which itself is the end result of a long list of decisions made by the different producers we choose to work with, as well as a healthy dose of happenstance.

We always try and bolster the sale of a bag of coffee with information as to where the coffee is from, rather than talk about ‘roast level’ or sell a farmer’s coffee as part of a range of house blends with snappy names like ‘Pillow Talk’ or ‘Bulldozer’. These are great marketing tools if you are selling your own brand as a roaster, but we want to defer praise to the people who grow and process our coffee at origin. We have always found it difficult to cater for the customer who asks us for “a dark roasted coffee” or “a breakfast blend”, instead offering them a seasonal single origin coffee from within our ever changing range that may offer more body, less acidity, and be a little easier to work with when you’re preparing a cup. These requests reflect a growing demand for coffees that still exemplify our sourcing approach, that are skillfully roasted, but are a little bit easier to work with, offering a more approachable flavour.

We started looking for coffees that innately lend themselves to a more classic profile, rather than trying to shoehorn a bright, high altitude, washed coffee into a dark roast profile, creating a more monotone flavour by muting that which makes it special.

We don’t typically stock naturally processed coffees, nor coffees from low altitudes. However, in looking for something with lower acidity, something more creamy than bright, and more mellow than exciting, we began turning our attentions to Brazil to find a microlot that could meet this marque. We are also considering looking for similar coffees to meet this marque from Nicaragua and El Salvador later this year.

Valdemar Amaro is a Brazilian coffee grower who at 22 moved from Paraná in the south of the country where his parents were producing coffee, to Patrocinio in Cerrado Mineiro, Minas Gerais, where his grandparents are producing coffee. Lots of Brazilian coffee farmers today are planting varieties like Icatú and Obatã, which share some genetics with robusta plants. This increases their hardiness in the field, but can influence the flavour of the cup in a negative way, typically leading to herbal, astringent and savoury notes. Valdemar is growing Mundo Novo and Red Catuaí, both of which are susceptible to pests and diseases in a way that the more resistant hybrid varieties are not, but which can produce a superior cup.

The selection we have chosen is entirely comprised of Red Catuaí, which have been naturally processed and dried in the sun rather than a mechanical dryer which speeds up the process. Fazenda Chapadão de Ferro, Valdemar’s farm, is situated at a modest 1,000m, which means more constant temperatures without a fluctuation of cool nights and hot days that higher altitude farms experience. This means the coffee doesn’t develop crisp acids or a dense, concentrated flavour, but is much more mellow. The flavours are a little less defined than other coffees we tend to buy, but there are very few coffee drinkers out there who’d object to simple caramels, chocolate notes and hints of toasted coconut that we’re tasting in Valdemar’s coffee, brewed as espresso or filter coffee!

Enjoy!

 

Producer

Valdemar Amaro at Fazenda Chapadão de Ferro

Harvest

August 2017

Process

Sun dried natural

Variety

Red Catuaí

Region

Patrocinio, Minas Gerais

Country

Brazil

Altitude

1,000 metres